Battle of The Mercato!

Dubbed the “Little Italy” of Providence, Federal Hill may feel a bit saturated at times. There are a million and one trattorias, cafes, and, of course, traditional markets (mercatini). With so many similar businesses, it made me wonder how they have all stayed afloat for so long—decades for some of them. I was curious how they maintain their own, distinct identities. With this in mind, I’m going on a market bender. I’m challenging myself by trying three of the most long-standing markets on Atwells Avenue (the main drag of Federal Hill), trying to figure out what sets each apart.

Sitting in Roma Ristorante’s dining room, I instantly understand why it seems to always be busy. Friendly staff, delicious pizza, and a calm, quiet atmosphere make it the perfect meeting spot. As I eat my huge slice of cheese pizza and sip my Pellegrino, I take it all in. Classical paintings of Venetian scenes. Many tables scattered all around the dining room. A bar loaded with Campari and an endless assortment of other Italian liquors. Next to me, I hear exchanges of Italian words and even some Providence gossip. I hear the young staff teasing their older coworkers to “get with the times.” But, frankly, I think a huge part of Roma’s charm is its old-fashioned nature—in the food and the people making it. In my opinion, this relaxed, old-school vibe is what makes Roma a locals’ hotspot—and what has kept it bumping in a saturated market. Can Tony’s Colonial Food match Roma?

After dashing directly across the street into Tony’s Colonial Food, I feel like I could actually be in Italy. As soon as I walked in, I was hit with a strong aroma of rich cheeses, fresh bread, and a deli full of house-made, ready-to-eat dishes. There’s pesto pasta, hefty slices of lasagna and, of course, lots of meatballs. Beyond the deli, Tony’s features an incredible variety of dry pasta—fusilli, rigatoni, orzo…spinaci, peperoncino, limone, squid ink—the list could go on and on. The first thing you see when you walk in, however, are the shelves full of gift baskets. Clearly, Tony’s has been curated more so for tourists than Roma has. There are loads of torrone, hand-made wooden cutting boards, and all kinds of unique, imported trinkets.

Beyond all of the Italian goods, what stands out the most—by far—is “Mrs. Gina.” Working the register, she told me she has owned Tony’s since 1969 (!), after emigrating from Italy. When I asked which market on Atwells has been here the longest, she quickly snapped back, “We have been here the longest! They all came way after.” Mrs. Gina is obviously a major figure on Federal Hill. As I write, she is deep in conversation with a Tony’s regular, who practically screamed with excitement when she saw Mrs. Gina. It’s very apparent to me why Tony’s Colonial Food is the longest standing market on Atwells Avenue. Beyond the breathtaking gifts and premium foods that bring in tourists and locals alike, it is the fact that the same face who was welcoming guests back in 1969 is in the same place today, nearly 60 years later.

I cannot say I was as impressed by Venda Ravioli as I was by the other two markets. Located just a five minute walk from Roma and Tony’s, the famed pasta-makers should certainly not be acclaimed for their customer service. Their curation of fine Italian goods is, well, very impressive. But honestly, after the coolness of the person who rang me out and the insane prices ($9 for one, small ball of burrata), I do not know if I’ll be returning. Venda is clearly very aware of the fact that they are so well-known in and out of Federal Hill. They are, by far, the largest market. There are shelves everywhere, each absolutely loaded with Italian goods of all kinds. In the center of the market, a massive, fully circular deli is filled to the brim with fresh olives, creamy cheeses, and every cured meat imaginable. In the back corner of Venda, a beautiful espresso and gelato bar and seating area welcome you to stay. I got my usual—a double espresso with a dash of cream. It’s good, but I like Roma’s espresso better. At the front of the store, stacks of fresh, white bread lay, waiting to be picked by customers and bagged by workers.

By far, the most incredible part of Venda Ravioli is, of course, their fresh pasta. I watched a man stand for—at the very least—ten whole minutes as made the very important decision as to what ravioli to bring home…Gorgonzola and spinach, crab and asparagus, prosciutto and provolone—even sweet potato! There are likely hundreds more. When I first moved to Federal Hill, Venda was the one market my landlord raved about, simply because of all of the ravioli. Frankly, I’m not even the biggest ravioli fan, but their enormous list of flavors is still quite admirable to me. And beyond ravioli, they have endless amounts of fresh pastas—long and short. Although I can’t say Venda’s success comes from their customer service or old-time vibe (like Roma and Tony’s), it’s clear their pasta is what has brought customers back again and again. Despite many of the restaurants next door making their own pasta, Venda clearly—by the sheer number of customers there specifically to buy pasta—remains the fan-favorite.

After trying all three of the most popular Italian markets on Atwells Ave, I understand how they have all stayed afloat in such a saturated market. Roma is welcoming, Tony’s feels like a trip back in time, and nobody can beat the quality (and quantity) of Venda’s fresh pasta. Just a few hundred feet apart, it’s hard to believe all of these markets have survived against one another—but they have. And what I learned today is that similarities do not disable businesses in the same market from growing. As long as each market has their own, distinct personality—whether it be in the products or the people—these markets will continue to thrive for a long time.